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Temporary Housewifey's Travel Guide and Travel Tips for Kyoto

So this is my last post about Japan, I promise, for those of you who are getting sick about me going on and on about a trip I came back from 2 weeks ago.  Because of the wonder of scheduled posting, as you read this I am actually in Salt Lake City, UT, at the Alt Summit (a blogger conference).  And then I'm on to LA so now I can go on and on about those trips next.  Anyway back to Japan.  Here is just a short summary of the things I recommend for anyone visiting Kyoto:

Stay:

I prefer the Hyatt Regency Kyoto because it's a beautiful place that really embodies the peace and sophistication of Kyoto.  It's located in a quiet part of town but there's still attractions right next door, Sanjusangendo (temple of 1000 Buddhas) and the Kyoto National Museum (where you can go to the museum cafe for breakfast at 9:15AM).  They also have a buffet breakfast that's pretty good, and if you have jet-lag I recommend just getting up, instead of tossing and turning in bed, and go to the breakfast early (like 6:30AM).  Then you might get window seat that looks down on their Zen garden.  It's worth it.  But if the Hyatt is not available, I would try any of the hotels around Kyoto station.  Kyoto Station is really the hub of Kyoto and you can really get anywhere from there whether by train or bus.  Plus there's lots of shops and restaurants there.

Shop:

-Walk around the Gion district and you might catch a glimpse of a geisha.  Also there's some cute stores and very old traditional Japanese houses there.

-For some more modern shopping, you can go to Shijo-dori.  It kind of feels like Tokyo shopping so if you don't care for crowds I would recommend shopping at:

-Kyoto Station underground.  Kyoto Station is huge with both an older and newer section and it's very easy to get lost (we did), so just be careful of the signs.  There are modern department stores as well as a lot of cute Japanese boutiques.

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Some of the things I bought (not all bought in Kyoto but most of it was):

Top picture: bamboo grater brush (to get all those small bits of garlic, ginger, or daikon off your grater), bamboo tongs, Laduree macaroons (from Ginza, not Kyoto), fake lashes (I think Japanese brands are some of the best ones), prayer bead bracelet, little monk head dish, Comme de Garcons clover pouch, wooden animal spoons, Murakami can of candy, coffee scooper in the shape of a house, bamboo butter knife, and tape hook, a plastic hook that looks like a peeling piece of tape (I'm using one now and it's pretty cute).

Botton picture: Kyoto's special mochi dessert, wasabi doritos (they were yummy), my favorite brand of mints (they're small but powerful in a really easy to carry case), senbei from Fushimi Inari, spicy Kit Kats (they use togarashi, or Japanese chili pepper), and shrimp crackers.  

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To do:

There are so many things to do/places to see in Kyoto.  This is just a short list but it's a good place to start.

- Fushimi Inari: If you can only go to one place, then I would say this is a must see.  This is the place with all the orange/red gates (cover photo, Kyoto Day 3).

- Kinkakuji: The golden pavilion (Kyoto Day 2)

-Ryo-an ji: The epitome of a Japanese rock garden (Kyoto Day 2)

-Sanjusangendo: Temple of 1000 Buddhas

-Kiyomuzu-dera: A beautiful large temple on the mountain built around a waterfall.  The waters are supposed to impart long-life and good luck if you drink it.  The last time I was in Kyoto, with Brian, we were there at the same time as a large tour group of Chinese tourists.  They were holding up the line to the waterfall because they were trying to bottle this stuff, as in squat on the floor as they tried to fill multiple small plastic bottles with an unwieldy water ladle.  Free souvenirs, I guess?

-Ginkakuji: Named the silver temple, but it's not.  I've never been there but I've heard people say it's pretty nice.

- Kyoto National Museum (pictured below): They have a great collection of ancient Japanese art, from Buddhist statues, to past Emperors' calligraphy scrolls, kimonos and Japanese ink paintings and it's all housed in their new modern and simple building.  They also still have exhibits in their original 1895 building (done in a very European style) if you're lucky enough to catch them.

-The Miho Museum: This is something I learned about after I came back so I never got a chance to go, but this will be #1 on my list of things to go to when I come back to Kyoto.  Thanks to my friend Colleen for the recommendation!

-Other museums/places that look interesting: Kyoto International Manga Museum (if you're into manga), Toei Uzumasa Eigamura (film set for traditional Japanese TV shows), and the Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto.  These are all places I haven't yet been to, but might check out on my next trip.

The Kyoto National Museum with the modern building on the left and the original on the right.

The Kyoto National Museum with the modern building on the left and the original on the right.

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To Eat:

I don't really have any food recommendations since I just mostly ate when and where it was convenient (and most of the time you can't really go wrong no matter which restaurant you pick).  But I would recommend:

-Dining al fresco at one of the many restaurants that line the Kamo river (Kamogawa) [talked about in Kyoto Day 1].  The view is beautiful and it was fun dining on traditional Japanese food Japanese style (aka on the floor) though you do have to constantly readjust so your legs don't fall asleep (picture above).

-Eating from the vendors outside of Fushimi Inari (great Japanese snack foods) and don't forget to get some senbei at the store near the train station (Kyoto Day 3)

 

Well that was a super long post but I hope anyone going to Kyoto in the future will find these tips useful!

Day 19-21: Crater Lake and heading home

It's finally THE LAST POST about this road trip, completed 4 months after we came home.  The last few days were spent driving back through Oregon and California, but we stopped by Crater Lake National Park in Oregon before heading home.  We went at sunset so the crater was highlighted even though the lake was a bit dark.  I would love to go again on a bright sunny mid morning.  It's supposed to be one of the clearest and bluest lakes because it's formed from rainfall and snowmelt, not from an underground water source (basically it's one big bucket).  

And this was our last morning in the RV.  Not a great picture but just wanted to capture the moment.

And we're home!  Ellie was so exhausted from the whole ordeal of sleeping in an RV and truck.

Last couple of thoughts about the trip:

-This trip was amazing and probably one of the best trips of my life (and I've been to Asia, Europe, and Australia), and I think that's because I started to get to know my own country better.  The vast scale and beauty of the nature out there is astounding.  

-And I want to do this again asap, but next time we're getting a better tow vehicle and I want to go further east

Day 14-15: Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park, located in northern Montana was definitely one of the most beautiful national parks I've seen, quite possibly the most beautiful.  Unfortunately we only had 1 day to spend there so we did a hike to Avalanche Lake and then drove up Going-to-the-sun Road to Logan Pass.  Fortunately we were there the day before they close the Going-to-the-sun Road and shut up park services.  A day later and we would not have been able to go up the mountain.  Anyway not much to say except everyone must go there at least once in their life.  Must!

On the way we stopped for some jerky.  We walked in and they were literally cutting up the cow in the store (it was less like a store and more like a butcher shop).  There were 2 large carcasses hanging from hooks and when we asked if we could buy jerky there, they pointed to their one retail rack on which were hanging maybe 15 bags of jerky.  They didn't even have a cash register.  Outside was a trash can of meat scraps and bones.  I wanted to take some for Hachi but didn't.  Though it was a semi-traumatic experience, the jerky was pretty good. 

The cutest little pottery yurt.


The RV park we stayed at was gorgeous!  It's called North American RV park and I highly recommend it.  It didn't hurt that we pretty much had the park to ourselves.




Fall in Montana is amazing.

Next are pictures from our hike to Avalanche lake.  It was my most favorite hike of the whole trip.  Not a lot of effort, but a lot of great pictures.  Easy and scenic, just the way I like it.  












The clearest lake I've ever seen.  

After our hike, we drove up Going-to-the-sun road.






By the time we came back down the sun was starting to set.  So we stopped by the side of the road waiting for it to go down.





A beautiful end to a beautiful day.





Day 11: Yellowstone

Yep, I'm still going on about this trip.  Sorry for dragging it out but since I'm over halfway done and some of the best pictures come from Montana, I'm going to keep slogging on.  After Jackson and the Grand Tetons, we headed north to Yellowstone.  We only spent one full day here so we definitely want to go back and explore the rest of the park.

As you drive into the park, you start seeing clouds of steam on the horizon.  And as you get closer you start seeing how massive these steam clouds really are.

Because some of the hot water from the hot springs empty into the stream, the stream starts to give off a little steam as well in the early morning (looked super eerie).  This particular morning was COLD!  But since the streams were relatively warm, we saw some fly fishermen in the water without a lot of extra jackets.  If you ever want to go fly fishing in the water during the fall, do it at Yellowstone.

Looks like an alien planet.

Also during one of our hikes we had a close encounter with a bison.  I took this picture peering over a rock.  I admit I was a bit scared, this guy was massive!  (Though looking at the pictures now, he looks a little gaunt).

Here's a picture of all the people waiting for Old Faithful.  I've seen it before and wasn't that excited the first time, so this time I just people watched.  I couldn't actually find any photos of old faithful even though I thought I took a picture of it.  

Guess you'll just have to be satisfied with this (tried googling old faithful gifs and couldn't find any):

Day 9-10: Jackson, WY and Grand Teton National Park

When we got to Wyoming things got more interesting.  I discovered my most favorite small town: Jackson!  I love love loooooove this town.  We were initially only going to spend 2 hours here and move on to our next stop, but we didn't want to leave so we decided to stay overnight in the area.  Yay for spontaneous airstream adventures!

Lucky for us, Jackson had RV parking!  And since it was the off-season, we had the parking lot to ourselves.  Too bad we couldn't stay overnight there since it would have made our lives so much easier.  But more on that later.

How can you not love a town that has parking stalls for RVs only!

Our first stop: the Fjallraven store (there's only a handful of these in the US, and there needs to be one in SF--they would make a bundle off of the rich hipsters here).

Been spending most our lives, living in the hipsta paradise...

Too many to choose from, but of course I had to get a backpack here.  I ended up with the maroon one there.

My other 2 favorite stores were MADE and Mountain Dandy.  

Here are some of the things I wanted to buy, but just took a picture of instead.

And here's Mountain Dandy, started by the same person who started MADE.

After a bit of shopping, we took the dogs for a walk around the small town.

Their main park had these awesome arches made from antlers.

As the sun was setting, we were looking for a place to eat dinner.  Right next to the Cowboy Bar is a restaurant called Local.  It was AAAAAAMAAAAZING!!  The couple who runs Fjallraven recommended this place, and they're from NY originally so you know that they would recommend something good (ok, so maybe not all New Yorkers are foodies, but still they were right).  As the name suggests, most of the food here was locally sourced.

Buffalo tartar.  Not usually a fan of raw meat, but I had to try it since you're not going to get fresher buffalo anywhere else!  The meat was lean and the texture was bordering on fresh sashimi.  The best tartar I've ever had.

Beer sampler on obligatory reclaimed wood plank branded with a cow.

I had the steak with foie.  One of the best steaks of my life!  

Brian went with some Elk medallions.  Also very tasty.  So much food!  But the prices were super reasonable.  

By the time we finished dinner it was super dark out, and they had a special antler arch for Breast Cancer Month.

And desert was some ice cream.  I tried their huckleberry ice cream and it was delicious!

So here comes the adventure part.  Since we didn't plan on stopping over in Jackson, we made a last minute search for RV sites.  We ended up going with the RV campground in Grand Teton National park, which isn't that far away from Jackson.  However it was elk migration season, and there were signs all over the road telling us to be careful of the elk.  So we drove a bit more carefully (plus it was pitch black) so it took us about an hour to get to the campsite.  Along the way, sure enough we saw some elk right alongside the road.  It was cool, but also creepy at the same time.  Elk are huge!  Much bigger than deer, and when their eyes glow they don't look very friendly.  These aren't my pictures but they look pretty much like what we saw that night.  They just kind of glared at us as we passed by.

Once we got to the campsite, it  was super small and dark.  And it required some back-up maneuvering of the trailer.  It was the most difficult RV site to get into!  Our 27 foot RV barely fit, and our truck didn't fit at all so we had to then park it somewhere else.  It took us about an hour to finally get it right.  We were exhausted!

Yea, something like this.

The next morning we woke up in beautiful Grand Teton National Park.  Of course on the drive in we didn't see anything, so the next morning was a pleasant surprise.

Too bad it was so gloomy, but still breathtaking!

Trying to pose with some uncooperative dogs.

Bye Grand Teton, and back to Jackson.

So we went back into town to grab some coffee and breakfast.  We had some delicious sandwiches at Backcountry Delicatessen (if you're in Jackson go there after you go to Local).

Those are some odd movie times.

 I have been informed it's probably phone number, thanks Jen!

Fall was in full effect!

Thanks Jackson for a great time!  I'm definitely coming back!

Day 9: Hello Wyoming

On day 9 we finally left Utah and headed into Wyoming.  On the way we passed by JC Penny's "Mother Store" and I had to stop.  So we parked the truck and RV around the corner and headed into JC Penny's first store (gotta say I love the unexpected stops on a road trip).  Who knew it was located in Kemmerer, Wyoming?  There's nothing else in this town and this store is located on a main street that only has 2-3 blocks of stores, and most of them were empty.  I'm amazed how a small store in the middle of nowhere actually became such a prolific chain.  I remember going to the JC Penny's in Ala Moana (Hawaii), and to think this is where it all started.  Too bad JC Penny's is going out of business now (edit: well it's not really too bad since they're an example of bad fast fashion--how else could they sell their clothes so cheap?  Well at least I'm glad I got to see this piece of history before it's all gone.

When the store first opened, they didn't have a cash register on the floor so they would send the money up to the second floor in those canisters and someone would calculate the change and send it down.  They probably got robbed one too many times back in 1902 so they devised this system.

That was the first cash register, next to the bust of Mr Penney.  I loved all the history and relics on the top of the shelves.

And some scenic stops in Wyoming.  So beautiful!

Day 8: Salt Lake City

On day 8, we finally left the Zion RV River Resort and headed to Salt Lake City, which was about a 5 hour drive when towing and taking gas breaks.  We got into SLC late in the afternoon.

The dogs enjoying the ride.  Ellie's new favorite sleeping position, on Hachi's back.

First stop was the Wasatch Brewery in the Sugarhouse neighborhood for some craft beer.  It was interesting since Utah has some of the strictest alcohol laws, being a Mormon state and all.  Some of the things we learned about alcohol in Utah: 1) All beer sold in restaurants have to be lower than 4% ABV, 2) you can't have a sampler because you can't be served more than one beer at a time 3) if you purchase a growler, you can't have any other glasses of beer on the same tab. 

But the decor was nice.  We went in for a late lunch/early dinner at like 3pm so it was basically empty, except for some "hard core" Utahns drinking 4% ABV beer at the bar.

Then we went to City Creek Center, a brand new shopping mall next to the main Mormon campus and owned by the LDS church, to get my consumerist non-nature fix for the week (though the shops were not great--just boring chain stores that can be found everywhere).  But the mall was pretty cool in that it's an open air mall but has a retractable glass roof to enclose the mall during winter months.  

And that's it for day 8.  Next stop: Wyoming!

Day 7: Bryce Canyon

After we spent all day on our feet hiking through the Narrows, it was a nice change of pace to have someone hike for us.  And by someone, I mean some horse.  If you ever go to Bryce Canyon, riding down to the canyon floor via horse is the way to go.  It's the best way to get up close and personal with the formations that Bryce Canyon's famous for (called hoodoos).

The best part of Bryce Canyon are those colors!

hello hoodoo

And these were our horses!  My horse is on the left and his name was Vodka (of course I'd get the only horse in the yard named after alcohol!).  The cowboy tour guide who assigned us our horses took one look at me and gave me Vodka.  I'd like to think it's because Vodka was the prettiest horse in the yard and not because I look like an alcoholic.  And that's Vodka's BFF named Dollar on the right, and he was Brian's horse.  During the whole ride Brian and I kept yelling "Dollar Vodka" just because it was so fun to say.

Ah, that day was so much fun.  I miss you Vodka! (the best horse ever!)

Day 6: The Narrows

My only decent picture from the Narrows.

The Narrows, aka one of the toughest hikes of my life, started bright and early (got there at 8am) so that we could avoid the crowds.  It started with a close encounter with a couple of deer, less than 4 feet away, and beautiful if not cold day.  We rented hiking gear from a shop in the town right outside of Zion National Park after doing some research.  We rented neoprene socks, water sneakers, and some waterproof pants. I know we took a picture of it but I can't seem to find them now so here are other people's pictures:

And I'm glad we did since it kept us dry and warm for most of the hike.  It only failed us when we got to a point where the water was higher than the waistline and then the water leaked in (and that's the point we pretty much turned around to go back).  It also included the wood walking stick which looked goofy but was quite a life saver, especially when walking through places with rough currents.

But I'm getting ahead of myself here.  First off, what is the The Narrows?  It's one of the more popular hikes in Zion where you are walking through the Virgin River between large canyons.  Again here are other people's pictures:

On a busy day it can look like this since there are certain "optimal" spots in the river where you can cross from bank to bank, so those places become spots for traffic jams.  Don't they look like ants?

This is how it was like when we went.  Not too bad but pretty deep water, and we encountered places where the water was deeper than this.

You're basically walking in the river for a large part of the hike, especially the further you go (in the beginning you can cross the river and go from bank to bank).  And it's not easy.  First walking through water for hours is a good calorie burner but super exhausting.  Add to that slippery round river stones, freezing water, and mini white water rapids where the current is really strong and it makes me wonder why it's so popular.  Maybe tourists tell other tourists how it's a "must see" and dupe them into perpetuating the popularity of the hike.  Well to be fair it is gorgeous, but I think you get more canyon beauty per unit of energy expenditure with Antelope Canyon (see Day 5).  We went about 4 hours in and another 4 hours back, so about 8 hours of walking through water with a couple breaks in between.  We just turned around when we felt like it since the Narrows pretty much stays the same (same beauty) even if you go a short distance or a long distance.  But the Narrows hike can go for even longer than that!  Some people hike from the other entrance to the river with camping gear, camp overnight, and then get out via the main entrance to the hike (basically hike it in reverse).  2 full days of walking through water!  Eeesh

I only have that one picture up top since I kept most of my gear wrapped up in waterproof bags to keep it safe.  But that meant taking a picture was a 15 minute event of unwrapping everything and then wrapping it back up.  But despite the ordeal, that's pretty much my most favorite picture from the whole trip, or maybe it's because of the ordeal that I love that picture the best.  I had to earn that one.  But yea, if you're ever at Zion National Park you should hike The Narrows.  I promise you won't forget it ;)

Day 5: Antelope Canyon

Well Happy 2015 folks!  It's taken me longer to recap my trip than the actual trip itself, and that's because I'm a lazy blogger.  But I figured I can't just stop mid trip without AT LEAST recapping Antelope Canyon.  It was one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen and these photos don't do it justice.  I need to go back so I can try and take better pictures (or I should probably at least edit these to make them look better, but like I said I'm a lazy blogger).  

There are 2 Antelope Canyons, an upper and a lower.  We went to lower, which doesn't have as great of a lighting but it's also slightly less crowded.  And let me tell you it's a challenge not to get any people in your shots since they herd tourists through these canyons like cattle.  But still, I would say if you're in the area you MUST visit this place.  

My favorite part of the tour was when a tour guide played the Native American flute and it echoed throughout the canyon.  A sound that so perfectly matched to the surroundings that it gave me goosebumps.  

At this point my camera ran out of batteries (I know, such poor planning!) so I resorted to my iPhone and a point and shoot camera.

Yay for iPhone picture processing.

And this is what it looks like going in and out of the canyons.  You actually don't know it's there unless you fell in, which is how the Native Americans found it in the first place (well a goat fell in).  

We stopped here on the way home.  It's quite impressive.  But natural canyons>man-made dams.

And that was our one day in Arizona.  We headed back to our RV parked near Zion and spent one more day there doing one of the hardest hikes of my life (a different kind of hard from Angel's Landing).  Oh and thanks to Lana for posting an encouraging comment on Facebook so I get on my lazy butt to sit-down and write this!

Day 4: Angel's Landing at Zion National Park

For our second day at Zion, we decided to tackle one of the most popular and more dangerous hikes in the park: Angel's Landing.  This is one of the toughest hikes I've ever been on.  First it's a long way up just to get to the base of Angel's Landing and then to actually get to Angel's Landing you are scrambling over a narrow pathway of rocks.  The pathway is about a foot or two and there are places on the trail where it's less than a foot so they provide you with some heavy duty chains to hold on to.  On the other side of the path?  A sheer drop off the cliff.  There are many warnings (over the PA system of the shuttle, at the start of the trail and at the base of Angel's Landing) for those with a fear of heights to not do it.  I think one of the signs actually said 9 people have died doing this hike in the last 10 years, so I just hoped I wouldn't be the one for 2014 since the fatality rate seems to average 1 a year.  BUT you are rewarded with some spectacular views!

This is just to get to the base of Angel's Landing.  A ton of switchbacks to get you up the plateau.

Midway up.  What a view!  I wonder if the first people to settle Utah laid eyes on a similar scene.

And from the top.

This is at the top of the plateau and these were the kinds of rocks we were scrambling over.

Our little airstream (keychain) made it up the top too.

Closer look at mini airstream.

Looking right off the side.

And here's a better perspective from the base of Angel's Landing which is straight up at the top.

Day 3: First day at Zion National Park

So to continue to day 3 of our trip (only about 18 more days to write about!), our first national park was Zion in Utah.  We started the day a bit late (past noon) since we wanted to enjoy our first day of no driving and take it easy in the morning.  In the last post I mentioned we stayed at an RV resort, which is basically a really nice trailer park (with a higher price tag) but it's worth it.  There are clean laundry facilities, a pool, and each RV space is a bit bigger, giving you a little bit more privacy.

Anyway, since we started the day late we decided to do some easy hikes around the park.  There's a great shuttle system within the park since parking at different trailheads is limited (also cuts down on traffic through the park and the amount of pollution).  At the Zion lodge stop (which is somewhere I definitely want to stay at in the future), are the trailheads for the Emerald Pool hikes (upper, middle and lower).  I would say that this was one of the best easy hikes in the park.  For a relatively short distance and very little elevation gain, you get some nice views and cool experiences (like walking underneath a waterfall).

Our first hike started at the Zion lodge shuttle stop

Lower Emerald Pool Hike (ok so it doesn't quite look like a waterfall here but there was definitely water falling--just not a lot).  I think during wetter seasons (years?) it's more prominent).

I think this was the middle Emerald Pool?

We wrapped up this hike, which took us about 2 hours or so at a very leisurely pace.  And then headed over to the east side of the park to do the Canyon Overlook trail.  This was an easy half mile hike that gave us amazing views.  The best time is at sunset since it's quite easy to get back down in the fading light and on a clear day you're probably awarded with some spectacular views (unfortunately for us it was a bit cloudy that day).

Day 2: Barstow > Las Vegas > Zion, Utah

So we were originally just going to pass through Las Vegas since we go multiple times a year, but c'mon who can just pass through Vegas?  Nope, definitely not us.  We succumbed to the siren call and made a quick trip out of it.  And I have to say I'm glad we did.  It was probably my best 3 hours spent in Vegas.

Since we rarely go to the downtown side of Vegas we decided to just skip the Strip and go for the more laid back part of town (we were not feeling especially glamorous having just come from a night in Shady Lane--we were newly-minted truly trailer park people).

This was my second spin on my first machine!  $20 in, $92 out (that's a profitable 2 minutes).

They need to update their machine, most of these people are dead.

Then in honor of the return of the Walking Dead (this was awhile ago), another $20 in, and about $275 out.  I found my luck with the slot machines so I just decided to go with it.  I made $300 in about 30 minutes (10 minutes of which were spent watching the machine rack up the money)!  I'm not usually a slot machine person, but I have to say it's become more appealing to me in my old age...

Took the winnings straight to the Beef Jerky Store and purchased a whole lotta snacks, about 3 grocery bags full.  It's a good thing we did since we needed them during our long road trip.  We finished it all before we got back to Cali.

And then dinner at Sushi Mon (all you can eat sushi).  The last bit of Japanese food to last us the next couple of weeks on our road trip (as we head into cattle territory).

By the time we pulled out of Vegas, the sun was setting.  This is the view from the back of the truck (Luckily unobstructed because the airstream was temporarily parked at another trailer park.  This was when we were driving back to pick it up).  We pulled into Zion late, around 10pm, but luckily had little trouble setting up camp because we were at an RV resort, which is completely different from a trailer park (but more on that on the next post)!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!  I thought I'd start off this holiday season by finally getting around to chronicling our road trip in our (rented) 27' airstream!  Beware, the posts will be lengthier than usual since there's so much to talk about!

And here she is!  What a beauty!

A little bit about towing an airstream for the first time.  Well, this was the first time I've driven a truck, let alone towed something so massive so you can understand the MAJOR difficulties I had.  Especially when driving from SF to LA on the I-5, which was the most congested highway that we encountered on this trip (in hindsight).  So it was a real sink-or-swim moment.  Luckily (for me), Brian drove first so he got to experience all the problems first.  And the biggest problem was trailer sway.  As newbie towers, this was not something we expected nor something we even experienced before.  I guess the closest thing I can describe it to is when your car is hydroplaning.  You can't really use the brakes nor control the steering wheel very well.  You can only hope to slowly counteract the sway with the steering wheel while gradually decelerating and hope not to hit anything in the process!  Luckily the Ford F250 we rented had a trailer brake which helps (if you know how to use it right, which of course we didn't during that first day.  A later very informative YouTube clip on the second day showed us how to do it right).  At some points it felt like the trailer was controlling the car and not the other way around.  The trailer sway got particularly bad when there were high winds, going downhill or when a large speeding big-wheeler passes (and super terrifying when a big-wheeler speeds pass you downhill in a high winds area).  Luckily we only had one major near-miss, but no accidents.  Staying between two lines was been harder.  And did you know that outside of the yellow lines there are rumble strips to let you know that you're veering off course (I never knew that since I've never strayed outside the lines before!).  I got to know the sound and feel of those rumble strips very well (basically every time I drove).

And here we are driving from SF to Barstow.

Thank goodness for towing mirrors (absolutely essential)!

And finally resting after a long hard first day of driving.  We drove from LA to Barstow and it took us about 5 hours I think.  We tried to split the driving 50/50 because it is absolutely exhausting towing a large trailer in such an uncomfortable truck (the truck had ZERO amenities).  This is the dinette and the dog bed was underneath, also where the heater vents are conveniently located so the dogs loved it there.

And the secondary dog area, the hallway leading to the bedroom.  On the left you have the shower and closets (in the foreground) and on the right you have the bathroom (where Hachi is sticking his nose into). 

The next morning in Barstow:

We had the pleasure of getting to know Nespresso during our trip, provided by the rental company.  After 3 weeks with Nespresso, we are converts.  We love it!

I also took along my fav, the nutribullet so that I could still get something healthy on a road trip.  Being able to bring everything you love is one of the best things of taking a trip in an airstream (or any trailer really).  Sorry for the ugly brown shake, that's what happens when you mix greens and acai (but it was delicious!)

And here's a pic of our freezer (so that we wouldn't have to cook from scratch and could spend more time adventuring).

And this was our first RV park on our trip.  Yep, it was called Shady Lane and yep, it was shady (and keep in mind there were 0 large trees on the premises).  This was taken as we were leaving because we actually pulled into this place around 9pm.  And it was even shadier then!  The people who helped us were a little scary looking (real characters!) and that first night I thought "What did we get ourselves into?" and "Will we get through it alive (considering our terrible towing skills and now literally shady RV parks)"?

But make it out alive we did and now Vegas ho!

Ellie was happy to make it out alive too.

The dogs' temporary abode while we drove.

On the way to Vegas!